Insect and Pest

od webworms are a lawn caterpillar which can affect your lawn. The active period for the sod webworm usually begins in early June through September. Sod webworms are very easy to control and typically do not create long term damage. Usually after chemical application, the affected area will re-grow in three to four weeks. Sod webworm eggs are laid by a moth. Many species of lawn moths are seen in June though most are not sod webworm moths. Sod webworm moths do not land on the turf but hover and drop eggs from above. Most commonly, an area starts where turf and shrub beds meet. Moths land on shrubs and drop eggs down onto the turf at the edge of the shrub beds. Sod webworms feed at night. Areas begin as small fist-sized area that appear as if it has been cut lower than the surrounding grass. Closer examination will show droppings (brown) in the feeding area and chewed edges on the turf blades. Call us for treatment if you notice sod webworm activity.

Grubs are the larval stage of many of the beetles you see in the summer, sometimes clinging to your window screens. It is not uncommon to come across some grubs in your soil when planting flowers, sodding, or digging in general. When the grub population reaches a threshold of four to six grubs per square foot, this then warrants control measures. Grubs are generally white fleshy “c” shaped insects with a brown head and a dark rear end. Their control is difficult due to their size, usually about the length and thickness of your little finger. They are difficult to detect as they feed underground devouring turf roots. The result is a lawn, which appears too dry. Many times the damage is extensive enough before symptoms appear and turf loss is probable. Post damage chemical applications will control any remaining grubs and potassium fertilizer applications will help rejuvenate root growth in existing areas.

Millipedes and centipedes are often confused for each other. Millipedes are usually dark colored and have two pairs of legs per body segment. Millipedes are generally slow moving creatures that break down dead plant material. They are beneficial to your garden as they feed on the dead plant material and return lawn fertilizing nutrients to the soil.
Centipedes are predacious, feeding on many harmful insects that can damage your landscape plants. Millipedes and centipedes can be found hiding in the damp soil under rocks or boards. They are very beneficial to the overall well-being of your lawn and garden.

Damage from deer is more common than you would think especially if you live adjacent to a naturalized area. Typically, hibiscus, indian hawthorn and sheflera are their favorite plants to feed on. However, if these plants are not available, deer have been found to eat almost any landscape plant. Feeding occurs during the night when human activity is minimal. Feeding damage will resemble an intense pruning with uneven edges. Besides the reduction in plant size created by feeding, many plants may be weakened. The weakening occurs when new growth emerges and is quickly eaten off. Deer feed on many plants and trees commonly found in the yard. They love strawberries, many vegetables, flowers, and the tender tips of young trees. They have been known to dig up a lawn in search of grubs. Keeping them away from your landscape plants can be a frustrating and seemingly hopeless task. There are several home-remedy and commercial care products available to help reduce deer feeding habits on plants and trees. Many are short lived, and once the deer become accustomed to the odor or taste, they may become ineffective. It is best to change products or methods on a regular basis. Some of the remedies are:

•Hang a bar of soap in a mesh bag from a tree. Fragrant soaps such as Lifebuoy, Irish Spring, and Dial seem to work the best. Tie the bags to the ends of the branches so that any soap that drips off during a rainstorm will not drip onto the trunk. This can be unsightly and ruin the aesthetic apperance of your landscape.

•Human or dog hair can also be placed in mesh bags or nylons and hung from tree branches. Human or dog hair is sometimes effective but at the same time can be a little much to accept.

•Moth balls, blood meal, bone meal, or baby powder are other options that may have a short term success in keeping deer out, but these will require repeated applications and have an undesirable odor.

•Barriers or roll-up fencing can be placed around the affected plant or plants to directly stop the access of the deer to the plant. This type of control can also be unsightly and ruin the aesthetics of the landscape.

•Repellant's seem to be the most effective option in controlling your deer problem. Deer repellant sprays are available at most garden centers and nurseries. These are typically applied every three to six weeks on affected plants. It is typically applied more often during the rainy season or when regular maintenance is occurring.

Do not dismiss the potential for deer activity in your landscape. If you live near wooded areas you are likely being visited at night by these four legged eating machines.